Entries by Mitchell

Best Of: Fall Menu 2013

Starting in mid-October, most restaurants switch over their menu to dishes inspired by the fall cornucopia of flavors. Painting with a palate of winter vegetables and meats, these chefs express themselves through in-season taste. Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve researched and sampled around, finding who is doing the most exiting stuff for these menu changeovers.

As we become more and more of a “Food City,” these menu changeovers will become the spark that sets a change in our local – and national – food scene. Every one of these dishes (arranged in no particular order) I would recommend with the highest enthusiasm, and every chef responsible is definitely worth keeping an eye on.

L’Œuf Poché et Caviar (Le Cirque inside The Bellagio)

An interesting turn on the “egg with caviar” trope, they take a poached one of those “super eggs” (fed tons of Omega-3 rich foods), and crust lightly in panko, with a large dollop of Oscetra sturgeon caviar. The richness of the egg contrasts the strong salty/fatty flavor of the caviar, and is complimented well by squares of Scottish smoked salmon, creamy fingerling potato, and all lightly drizzled with a pepper (I think it was espelette) mignonette. This is one of the unique dishes on the new Le Cirque menu, keeping in with their trend of “less is more.”

Steak Oscar (Aquanox inside The Venetian)

Enjoying a real surge of creativity, Aquanox has been going in a ton of directions. There is no shortage of very interesting fish items, but I was really struck by their rendition of steak Oscar ($69): good filet of prime, a bit of wild crab béarnaise, and thinly shaved asparagus. Simple, satisfying, this is yet another great example of classic dishes coming back in a big way, which I’m absolutely loving. When you go, be sure to try the “Absinthe root beer float,” using locally-grown house-made basil ice cream. Built tableside, flaming of course.

Lobster and Rock Shrimp Risotto (Marché Bacchus, 2620 Regatta Dr., Suite #106)

Using almost exclusively fall items to make this risotto ($26), the two shellfish stand out beautifully on a complex backdrop of turnip, carrot, and parsnips. This confetti is joined by wonderfully aromatic tarragon oil, and left with a scoop of crème fraiche in the center. A unique and stand-out risotto dish, leaving most of the Strip in the dust, just another great reason to make the trek to one of the city’s best French restaurants.

Bacon Wrapped Sous-Vide Pork Tenderloin (Comme Ça at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas)

At what I’m calling the “most interesting” restaurant on the list, Executive Chef Brian Howard is doing everything in a very cool way. While I love their house-made charcuterie program, and was very impressed with nearly everything I had there, there was something about a sous-vide pork tenderloin ($34). Seared to at a beautiful med-rare, on top of this smoky caramelized wedge of romaine, dotted with tomato and black garlic ranch, this dish really plays with your expectations for pork. Pork cooked this well with regularity could put the steak game out of business.

Basil-Fed Escargot Rockefeller (Tender Steak & Seafood at the Luxor)

Often the most overlooked of steakhouses (certainly not enjoying the same novelty as Circus Circus Steak for its juxtaposition of casino property), Tender’s “in-crowd” clientele of MGM big-wigs are enjoying some truly interesting dishes. One of the first twinklings of a Las Vegas “classic dish” trend, their escargot Rockefeller ($18) adds an interesting twist. Spinach, tomato basil cream, and a roasted garlic hollandaise round this little escargot shot perfectly, and certainly more interestingly than the obligatory garlic/lemon/herb butter.

Pork Terrines with Tail (Sage at Aria)

If I had to choose a restaurant that really blew me away this season, it would be this one. Even disregarding the near-perfect foie brûlée, items like their wonderful yellowtail kampachi (the Buddah’s hand/black tea gelée was inspired) and these terrines just fit the bill perfectly. It combined a pretty rustic pork terrine, dotted with mustard seeds, with a kind of haute plating. It was paired with white beans and cubes of winter squash, and each slice was topped with a little house-made “salsa verde.” The dish also included a segment of crispy pig tail, the fattiness of which was cut perfectly by the tangy dressing of the vegetables. An honorable mention goes to their Absinthe Eggnog ($16), a recreation of a rare Swiss delight from their pasty chef, absolutely beautiful for a dessert cocktail.

Cochon 555: Number of the FEAST

There’s something happening this Sunday.  Something that hasn’t happened here in 2 years.  Something I’ve mentioned several times in the past because of the great impression it left me the last time it was here.  I’m talking about COCHON 555, BABY.

 

Let’s all do this… to ourselves!

 

As a little background, Cochon is a touring show, part education on the virtues of the most delicious of animals (besides the giant tortoise, apparently), and allowing chefs to REALLY show off.And when I mean show off, I mean they SHOW THE FUDGE OFF.  I’m hearing rumors of Fernet Branca ice creams, re-vamped Bahn Mi, and last time around there was an all-ham hamburger.  Not to mention the general meat-artisans that are part and parcel to the whole spirit of the event.  Everything from the humble Berkshire chop to the grand 4+ years aged jamon Iberico de Bellota (a Spanish wild boar breed that roams wild and feasts on acorns) will be represented in the most gleaming of light.

 

Oh my, yes.

 

While there will be many of the regular suspects around, there will be just about as much out of state chefs.  And, in keeping with the stereotype, there will be the obligatory guys with big beards and/or pompadours.  We’ll be looking like a regular mini Portland (OR RATHER PORKLAND HAHAHAAHAHAHAHA I’M SO CLEVER).

I’m telling you guys, of all the food events I’ve been to, this is the one I couldn’t find fault with.  Very much hoping it will be just as good now that it has returned.

http://cochon555.com/2013/allstarcochon/

October 20th, inside the Commonwealth, 6pm

525 E. Fremont St.
Fremont St, Las Vegas
(702) 445-6400

NOVECENTO PIZZERIA: Gone in 90 Seconds

An opening down on the Eastern/215, of a unique, rustic pizza place leaves everyone asking the same question, “This isn’t the first location?”

 

The CHOICES!

 

Opened about 10 months ago and a good 25 miles away, Novecento the First is nestled far, far, far, far further than anyone should consider driving for a slice of ‘zah.  Hence the limited audience, until Novecento the Second opened a few weeks ago.  Good word after good word got me in there, and I’m really glad I did.

Start off with that kind of dough that New Yorkers/Italians/Chicagannites seem to think is geographically linked to magical druid spirit worlds, a Subway-style line of ingredients with more than a few surprises (prosciutto de parma was an eyebrow raiser, capers were another), an absolute rocket engine of an oven, and 90 seconds later you’ve got a pretty sweet pizza.  All charred like on the bottom, nice and crispy on top, and not super wet, like even good places will end up being.  I tell ya, I ordered one of those Tartufi pizzas from Due Forni the other day, it was like a bread bowl of Cream of Truffle soup. (ZING)

 

A pie that won’t leave you limp!

 

Now, completely separate from me writing this, a friend mentioned their visit to a unique Italian restaurant/deli called Parma, up on Washington.  A place, wherein a server mentioned also being connected to two wood-fired pizza places.  It turns out it is owned by the same guy, Chef Marc.  This guy is some kind of specter of the off-strip dining world!  I’m only hearing good things about these restaurants, but nothing about them being connected.  If I ever get the free time to make it up on Buffalo and Washington, I’m checking this place out.  However, a good three years ago, Mr. ELV was left lukewarm by their pasta, but interested overall.

 

Sides! They are all salads.

 

It’s rare I find a simple non-sit-down spot that is worth talking about, but the first arm of this city-wide conspiracy theory that is Chef Marc’s trio is definitely worth it.  Take the red pill, see for yourself.

 

See the strings behind the pizza…

 

 

NOVECENTO PIZZERIA (2 locations)

5705 Centennial Center Blvd. Suite 170

Las Vegas, NV 89149

702.685.4900

and……

9460 South Eastern Ave.

Henderson, NV

Everybody CUT, Everybody CUT Loose – Foodloose!

I’ve got basically two “bucket lists” I’ve been trying to check off: bang off the Top Ten on the ELV list (I’ll need to find a Three Stooges-esqe way of eating at Guy Savoy and the Robuchon Duo, dropping that much $dosh$ is not in the equation), and the lofty, near Sisyphean task of trying every steakhouse in town, truly a Guinness Book/Ripley’s Believe It or Not worthy feat .

Imagine my luck, then, when I can do two at the same time!  CUT gets the #1 spot in the paperback guide that John, Max, and Al put together, partly because the top ten are in alphabetic order.  Or rather, entirely because of that…  I’ve only been to three of The Ten (and Marche was more of a brunch), but I can see the crowning jewel of Puck’s Vegas menagerie busting the top five.  And of course, how necessary is a steakhouse in a list of Vegas restaurants?

Imagine my luck again! It was Carnevale!  Not specifically relevant, but I just really like clowns, so there were a bunch of these harlequins milling around outside, completely silent and miming.

 

 
HILARIOUS CLOWNS

 

As much as I would have liked to continue that surreal air of whatever sick stuff those wacky Rothschilds get up to, the inside of CUT actually played down that feel of exclusivity and pomp.

I know I’m a sucker for that kind of stuff, I mean I’d be thrilled drinking Napoleon’s wine out of Charlemagne’s skull in a Merovingian castle, but I can appreciate it as a power move to forego that.  Comfortable, modern, not TOO loud, and I could see how people would dig some old Stones hit as they dig on their rib eye.  I suppose that’s the one real thing I felt was off kilter though, the music.  It does fit their Beverly Hills location as “the” spot for wheeling and dealing and all that degeneracy media stuff.

 

Their somme service is all class, however.

 

Now, does a casual atmosphere denote casual staff?  Absolutely not.  Butt-kissery may be out of style, but it will never be dead, and we can thank our lucky stars for that.  The service was so thorough, the staff practically feeds you.

And the food?  How’s the food, you ask?  REALLY FRIGGIN GOOD.  Dig on this one: a wagyu short rib, slow cooked for eight whole hours, with garam masala and curried corn.  I know we don’t really have any good Indian restaurants, but this would be one of the best Indian dishes in New Delhi.  It didn’t punch your palate out with tons of cumin or coriander, it just had a very well balanced spice blend, creamy in the corn and rich in the masala, that coasted on the tender beef effortlessly.

I feel like these non-steak items in a steakhouse are the truest test of quality, or overall quality.  A good cut of meat, an adept enough set of line cooks, a scientist or artist doing the aging, and even your mandatory Slots-O-Fun tier steakhouse can get within striking distance of the big-name guys to the un- or semi-initiated.

But how they fill in the gaps, that is something only a truly dedicated and present chef can give you.

Sometimes you can barely see their creativity and drive just trying to eek their way onto the menu wherever they can (I think the Circus Circus Steakhouse is the prime example of this), by way of a creative side or house cheese board.  A place like CUT knows to give full berth to a chef like Matt Hurley, whose workday (I’ve heard) starts with 10am receiving and ends with 1am labeling and pre-prep.  The time he has left is surely spent dreaming, likely dreaming up some amazing dishes to accompany world-class steaks.

Consider the Bone Marrow flan, pictured above.  It’s a dish that has had a couple imitators, but has firmly been cemented in the image of CUT.  While I would have liked to see mine a little… larger than the width of a Magic Marker, it was a fine little bite for two, paired mainly with a mushroom marmalade to add the perfect earthy balance.  This is one of those influential dishes that make you feel terribly late to a party, and everyone else is already riding this wave.  Same way I felt when I watched Evil Dead for the first time.

I’ll post a few pics of other starters/sides below, but I’ll leave you with a word on their steaks, and steak in general.  Now gather that I’m not a steak expert quite yet, and I can only really go on the few things I’ve gathered on my own with flavor.  Seared vs. Grilled, grass-fed vs. corn-fed, Angus vs. Wagyu vs. Wangus (or Angyu, if you have no soul), ages, rubs, marbling, etc., etc.  I can appreciate these things, but the minutiae should be left to hobbyists and experts.  What I can tell you is that CUT can take you on a magical journey of beef, riding a blimp made of flavor.

 

Burrata, Prosciutto Di Parma, Frog Hollow Nectarines

 

 

Snake River “Wangus” ribeye, Japanese Wagyu strip, and roasted Lobster with black truffle sabayon

 

Your Pal,

-Mitchell Wilburn

CUT in the Venetian

3325 S Las Vegas Blvd 

Las Vegas, NV 89109

(702) 607-6300

PUB 1842 Opens: Optimism Is a Fool’s… something.

Oh yes my dears, a pub has opened, and with it comes it’s selection of lazy burgers, cutesy little “reimagined” things, a primarily Sam Adams and Blue Moon “craft” list and OH WAIT that’s not this place at all.  No, I’m thinking about half the other pub-concepts out there that think they can just strip the hokey Irish Disneyland nonsense from your generic Irish Pub stamped into every walking mall, and you can call it a Gastro-Pub to justify the $30 nachos.  That would be inaccurate.  This place is more… Take Public House (the real one, with the Cicerone), shake the front end of Comme Ca liberally over it, and inject some pretty impressive talent into the menu.

 

 

YET MORE… DRINKS

The more I heard about this place, the more my stony wall of cynicism was chipped away.  ”A burger with peanut butter on it?”, I asked myself, “Pish-Posh!  That kitschy jive won’t bend my ear!”  I forgot to mention I talk to myself like an old Land Baron.  But of the few mini-versions of things I tried, I was so surprised that I dropped my monocle.  I won’t speak much to the food because even the curmudgeonly of critics know these practice bites just aren’t an indicator of future quality.  So what I’ll say is that this light balance of spice, salt, and sweet does what a city full of onion-jams and garlic aolis WISHES they could do.

Now, cocktails.  I’m pretty clued into the cocktail scene, at least enough that I know a name like “Carlo Splendorini” is one that puts out either great cocktails or a so-so acrobat troupe.  For example, the Nacho Libre is a mix of Epsolon Blanco, ruby port, lime, agave, and ginger beer.  The corporate head of mixology is definitely putting a stamp on what will be a definitely cocktail-heavy experience.

Like I said, this is just a preview, so I’ll save the tastebud-tickling alliteration for when I (or likely, Mr. Curtas) gives a thorough shake-down of the joint.  I’ll leave you with this: their raw bar had a lobster tail the size of a shrimp (a step up from “not at all”, at least), but a crab leg the size of a can of frigging Red Bull.  Seriously, I felt I should start cutting slices and passing them around.  I could have made a pretty serious crab salad foot-long po’ boy.  This crab leg was like a carnival novelty jumbo cigar.  It was a really big crab leg is what I’m getting at here, sorry for being so obtuse.

Oh yeah and here’s me giving the thumbs up because Micheal Mina sprayed a bunch of journalists with Prosecco at an event I attended, and it was hilarious.  Same day Robuchon rustled my jimmies, that was a funny day.

Your pal,

Mitchell Wilburn

CIRCO to Close In 1 year: Don’t Cry for Me, Semolina

Despite my terrific pun in the title, this is sad sad news for lovers of was was basically the Earth 2 version of Le Cirque.  In my eyes, it could have been the same restaurant with a big “I Love Lucy” line painted down the middle separating the French from the Italian, with a little Swiss host stand in the middle.

The story officially broke by our very own lovechild of Walter Cronkite and and Gene Shalit, in perhaps the most zeitgeist-y way you can, via Facebook Status Update.  While the ability so spur a veritable whirlwind of flying rumors is enviable, I can confirm with John that it is the Lord’s truth:  We’re losing a good one.  The reasoning, still quite murky.  The murk may go deep, even to the thick black oil that pumps through a casino exec’s cold, unbeating heart.

 

Pictured, the person who marshals your dining choices.

 

Because I am not one to save my mourning until the last minute, and because I have always felt Circo to be one of the most woefully under-appreciated of the fine dining sect, I took in some of the new things to be had.  I’ll do it in few words, because we’re not all H.L Mencken over here.  Consider it Exhibit A through C on why you should make up the rest of your lifetime’s worth of Circo in the next year.

Their octopus salad has the hipster-cred of being done before everyone and their danged knuckle tattoos started tossing whatever cephalopod they could onto the grill.  After what  must be a downright Swedish tenderizing, these little tentacles are about as tender as a king crab leg and go perfectly with a simple pancetta and garbanzo salad and topped with shaved “bottarga”, the cured whole caviar-sac of a Grey Mullet.

 

Now you just KNOW I don’t like the term “comfort food”.  It’s an odd idea, like food is supposed to make me uncomfortable unless it’s some fried junk crusted in a breakfast cereal.  The “Salmone e Caviale” however, fits the bill of being very physically gratifying as well as mentally stimulating.  The smoked salmon and marscapone cream makes a kind of “carbonara” experience, while the paddlefish caviar stands out with bursts of that delicious salty goodness.

Submitted for your approval like Rod friggin Serling was your waiter, a citrus cured, smoked swordfish carpaccio.  With technical bravado in removing the less desirable qualities of the massive fish and complimenting the meaty flesh, it is served with a stunning and complexly layered bite of shaved fennel, watermelon radish, vodka cream, and caviar dressing.  Swordfish has always come off as sort of a showy, pushy thing people grill up as steaks, but Chef Micheal Vitangeli dresses up this cockney street urchin into a real Pygmalion.

Chef Michael has never disappointed as an Executive Chef, and clearly hasn’t disappointed in any position since working his way from prep.  Did you note a theme up there?  This guy has more chops in his aquatic fare than some entire seafood-centric restaurants have in their entire menu, and he gets can drop such a problem ingredient like caviar into it like it comes naturally!  He gets a Blingee.

If we’re seeing this caliber of food close a restaurant, burger concepts being foisted upon us in place of possibly game-changing charcuterie places, I only wonder what the future will bring…

 

 

ACCEPT BURGER, HUMANOID

 

Your pal,

Mitchell

Fear and Loathing in Vegas Uncork’d

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs… Oh wait, this is something else entirely, although I’m fairly certain I listened to “Sympathy for the Devil” at one point, and I recall there being amyl nitrate somewhere.

 

 Tobey Maguire not included

 

The build up to this story held a great many undertones of personal danger, but mostly calling in favors, tracking down PR types and weaseling my way into whatever it is I could.  My fervor was motivated less by testing my true grit against a weekend of a gluttonous bacchanalia, although I am always eager to do that, but to test my earlier prediction about the Hubert Keller/Sarah Johnson Beer Garden being the best real event (“real” referring to any that isn’t a Michelin starred chef cooking a dozen-by-a-dozen degustation-athons).  Really, honestly, with the trend of overselling the food booth and TV chef selfie events AND making the grievous omission of any Le Cirque/Circo/Sirio things, I would say my prediction had sadly come to fruition.  Grand Tasting: consider the ball dropped.  It all kind of ran together…

 

Chicken livers, beef and octopus carpaccio, and crudo by… some guys I guess

 

 

This strange old French dude grabbed my rump because there was a tiny bottle of champagne in it.  True Story.

 

Well I guess not sadly.  It is just kind of a double whammy that the non-grand events were way better than “Grand” event.  Dig on this beer garden, friends.  All Alsatian stuff, which is basically German food, with so much pork it was practically a mini-Cochon 555.  Cochon, for the fellow memory-impaired was an extremely amazing traveling pork-fest that had a leg here ONCE, until something happened.  I think they wanted to slaughter pigs in the bathrooms or something, or a butcher got in a fist fight with some religious protester I DONT KNOW.  All I know is that we are poorer for it, but hopefully this beer garden will be a permanent yearly fixture.  For being somewhat noticeably their first time, don’t worry, I’ll be gentle.

 

Little piggy on the left there

 

The food, oh the food.  Yes it was goddanged amazing.  There was a table with enough various cheeses, charcuterie, pork rillettes, and  mustards to make a German or a Frenchman cry.  Although the little play-dough pigs were a cute touch, the head cheese was the item that really flipped my lid.  There were sausages abound, weisswurst, brats, oldschool frankfurters, and even roast pig, de-boned and sliced whole, stuffed with apples and spices.  In a bizarre science gone wrong (or terribly right) was this kind of half-Bouillabaisse, half-sauerkraut dish.  It was a weird one, but turns out is very synonymous with Alsace and rather tasty.  The ‘kraut was soft, the fish, scallops, and mussels were tasty, and it was just a nice simple, rustic dish.  It was ‘displayed’ with some nice looking Riesling,  but there was none to be had.  Why’s that you imagine?  Because this AIN’T NO WINE PARTY.

 

tastiest big pile of pickled cabbage I’ve had in a while

 

The beer of this beer garden?  Phenomenal.  They had a limited release keg of Maker’s Mark barrel aged Sled Dog Imperial Stout on nitrotap.  That was about the creamiest, thickest beer I’ve had in a very long time, and had an extremely drinkable profile of wood, vanilla, chocolate, and roasted toffee.  I would usually say a barrel aged imperial stout would have way too much character to drink a full pour of, but this one was just too danged tasty.  There was some Innis and Gunn, a new Newcastle, and a few more selections from Big Dogs.  Overall, this event was a real winner and although I didn’t get to go to everything (anyone who did the Rick Moonen/Abou-Ganim event, let me know how it was) this was the real main event of Uncork’d.

 

Tangentially related: Rick Moonen told me he found my doppelganger (Alex Blagg), and it is FREAKING ME OUT.

 

To transport to the other side of the weekend and the liquor isle, there was a Vodka and Caviar social hour at Red Square, a place known for those two things exactly.  The Vodka: Pretty good!  There was a tasty shandy cocktail, a spiked sorbet, and Russian Standard martinis.  The Caviar:  Non-existent!.  The application was alright; build your own blinis as they came out of an automatic blini maker, on grilled oysters, topping little tiny seafood ice cream cones, deviled eggs (although a whole egg was a bit much), but the caviar itself wasn’t really anything to care about.  Paddlefish, lumpfish, salmon, even the much derided smelt roe were all present, but nothing that legally meets the definition of “caviar” where there are such definitions to be had.  Hey, I know it’s expensive stuff, but there could have been at LEAST some salt cured hackleback or smoked cod roe, something comparable.  My suggestion: up the price, make it a dinner, and break out the good stuff.

 

Well maybe “Lumpfish” is just a name OH HOLY JESUS NO

 

Your pal,

Mitchell

CARNEVINO: Grandmaster of Meat

After a meal at Carnevino and having one of their amazing 90-120 day aged cuts of meat, I’m going to have to totally agree with Mr. Curtas’classification of them as one of the best steakhouses in the country (his repeated, vitriolic endorsement certainly motivated me).

It’s like if the cold-war era wasn’t fought over nuclear stockpiles, patrolling bombers, and space travel, but rather steaks.  And while the Kremlin was trying to cross breed a Holstein with a Pachyderm, or putting the first person to stop clapping for Stalin in an abattoir, we were perfecting Carnevino.  Behind the facade of a giant Italian castle’s dining halls, there is a well-oiled (with artisanal olive oil, of course) machine working in back and off-site to turn cows into gold.

The Head Honcho, Exec Chef Nicole Brisson is a true Gangsta for real.  I was quite pleased to find that she was doing a couple items with ramps, an east-coast seasonal foraged green, that I was interested in trying.  In fact, I ended up trying quite a few things.  I would even go so far to say, just weighing in on food alone, Carnevino could stand as a wonderfully unique and creative restaurant even if there were NO STEAKS on the menu.

A steakless steakhouse would, in nearly all cases, just be a place full of tables and no customers.  Carnevino would make up for it by having an amazing sommelier, a truly inspired mixologist (David Cooper never fails to impress, and the Farmer’s Market cocktail is a testament to cocktails “with the seasons”), and some damned good food.  For example: this Dungeness crab salad, just lightly dressed with herbs and creme fraiche, on butter lettuce, kumquats, and “surprise” avocados.  ”Surprise” is a variety that is about the size of an ostrich egg, and decadently creamy and tangy inside.  All came together as a perfect highlight of the super-fresh crab.

Also from the Sea, we have their grilled octopus.  While just as tender as other on-strip places that have mastered the cephalopod family, these thick logs of tentacle meat were definitely more solid than the rest.  They didn’t fall apart or get stringy as others can, but had the consistency of… super-firm tofu.  Something like that.  Either way, it’s a hearty bite with pickled root vegetables and a tangy limoncello sauce.  An interesting addition on the very bottom, thinly cut raw-ish octopus turned into a kind of carpaccio.

 

Thanks and photo credit to E. C. Gladstone @ nowimhungry.com

 

 

I was there for ramps, and they were utilized wonderfully in this stracciatella with charred ramp pesto.  I had no shame, I got DOWN in this stuff.  The ramps gave an interesting aromatic, but green, flavor that when stretched out with the fresh creamy cheese, was amazing.  Bite after bite it was just so unique and satisfying, I nearly took it down myself.

Now, I love steak tartare.  I love it almost everywhere, and I’ve rarely been disappointed.  Compared to the “Carne Cruda alla Piemontese”, I feel like I’ve been eating a wet messy SHAM 90% of the time.  This is substantial tartare, that actually tastes like a danged steak!  Perfect bit of tang, perfect hints of mustard, and I’m sure “chopped to order” doesn’t hurt.

 

Thanks and photo credit to E. C. Gladstone @ nowimhungry.com

 

 

Now I said before, and remain steadfast, that Carnevino can stand as one of the best Italian places in town even without their world class steak service.  However I would be a FOOL AMONG FOOLS if I went there and didn’t sample that heavenly aged beauty.  For your approval, a 90-day aged bone-in New York Strip, seared and finished to perfection, finished with just a little drizzle of super-fine olive oil.  The aging gives the meat this interesting rich, liver-like, foie gras kind of flavor, in addition to the natural meat tastes.  The table-side carving by a sharp looking young man in a suit only adds to the experience.

 

Thanks and photo credit to E. C. Gladstone @ nowimhungry.com

 

Beautiful, no matter which way you slice it.  I swear I got chills, a guy in a Brooks Bros. suit slicing such a  steak like a surgeon is practically pornography.  I haven’t been to every steakhouse to hang a shingle in this town, but damn if I don’t know I’m in one of the best when I’m at Carnevino.

 

CARNEVINO

Inside the Venetian

3325 Las Vegas Blvd.

Las Vegas, NV 89109

carnevino.com