I know I am eating on the strip too much when I noticeably cringe on my way to my table.  Usually, I am barraged with blaring music, odd decor, and a dining room absolutely packed with tables.  So, the first thing I noticed about The Barrymore was how incredibly comfortable it was.  I could hear my friends over the table, but I couldn’t hear our neighbors.  The sound levels were perfect, and I’d just like to get that out of the way because it made me so relieved, I could feel my usual stress-induced full-body tightening melt away by the time I sat down.

 

The Barrymore is one of the more hidden gems of our fair city, located in The Royal Resort hotel.  No, I hadn’t heard of it either, but a recommendation from a trusted friend, I decided to go.  Not to mention that I was already a fan of Anthony Meidenbauer’s two other restaurants,  Holstein’s and Public House.  So, I decided to make a night of it.

 

The Barrymore's take on an Old Fashion: Buffalo Trace Whiskey, Demerara sugar, whiskey bitters, orange, brandied cherries.

Their cocktail list is quite interesting, in that they have both tried and true classics as well as their own modern mixtures, but they don’t make a big deal about it.    Too many places these days try and make a big deal that they can do hundred year old cocktails, then someone puts on a Rat Pack playlist, a guy wears a fedora, everybody loses.  The Barrymore, however, plays it cool by not even separating new from old.  What they do separate is their selection of five different bloody marys.  Vodkas infused with jalapeno, mushroom-truffle, even beef brisket.  I’ll have to make sure to bring someone to carry me out if I come for brunch.

 

Diver Scallops over ox-tail stew, potato galette & mushroom emulsion

But what about the food, you ask?  Forget about it.  The food is phenomenal.  I feel like The Barrymore is the place for Anthony Meidenbauer to break out of the corporate-approved mass-appeal fine dining shell and stretch his culinary wings.  There is something to suit every taste, from Vadouvan squash curry  to a cowboy rib-eye.  An interesting midpoint I enjoyed were these pan seared diver scallops, over this amazingly rich ox-tail stew with potato galette and mushroom emulsion.  Absolutely amazing.

 

Perhaps the most remarkable thing about The Barrymore is their steadfast dedication to keep the overall “Old Vegas” feel, without the kitch, squalor, or chronic alcoholics that usually go along with places that tout that style.  Can it truly be called Old Vegas without the seedy underbelly?  Can’t say for sure, but I know I prefer it this way.  It is hip without being overt, comfortable without being sleep-inducing, and classy without being ostentatious.  If I could eat here every night, truthfully, I probably would.  Or at least I would longer than almost any other place in town.  Oh, you’ll see me back at The Barrymore soon, I promise you that.

 

barrymorelv.com